Apr 4
Insulation is the phenomenon of reducing the flow of heat, electricity or sound between the inner space and outer space of an object. Insulation can be used both to prevent heat gain and from heat loss to the surrounding areas. Most electric appliances use insulation technology like Refrigerators, freezers and Heaters. One of the main applications of insulation is house insulation. An insulated home is more energy efficient, requires less maintenance and is more comfortable, as the temperature remains uniform over weather changes. Insulation at home helps in saving energy and reducing utility bills. It makes the house more comfortable.
There are many types of insulation available these days like Batts and Blanket insulation, loose fill insulation, Cellulosic insulation, Reflective insulations etc. Foam insulation is one of them. Foam insulation is performed by pouring liquid foam from a container.
Foam insulation is convenient to install while constructing the house rather than insulating already built structures. As foam insulation is air tight, it is not generally recommended for attic insulation that should be properly ventilated. Also, Foam insulation is a bit more expensive than batt and blanket insulation.
Foam installation is easy to perform with adequate instruments. They are much more powerful and efficient than Batt and Blanket insulation. They have a higher R value and provide better thermal resistance. Due to their high efficiency, they can be installed even in small spaces. Foam insulation is generally filled in the cavities of walls, floor, roofs etc. Foam insulation also protects the space from moisture condensation. Foam insulation does not shrink or settle. It is fire and insect-resistant.
Rigid FoamFoam Insulation is best used when space is a consideration. It is easy to install and best when a higher R value is not needed. It is made up of densely packed air particles and provides a high thermal resistance. It is good for creating a barrier against energy loss and air infiltration.
Spray-on insulation is installed with the material known as polyurethane. Spray foam insulation is used to insulate the walls and ceilings to keep the house warm during cold spells and to keep it cool in summer. Spray Foam insulation is a bit more expensive than Fiber glass insulation. This type of insulation can reduce utility and repair bills as the house is naturally warmer and free from bugs due to the insulation. Spray foam insulation lasts longer than other types. Also, it dos not fall off the wall like fiber glass insulation.
Proper Precautions must be taken while installing the foam insulation. Some Foam insulation materials contain chemicals that can harm the skin and may cause lung cancer. Therefore proper masks must be put on the face before installing them. They must not be installed near to electrical equipments. Though, they do not catch fire easily they may emit harmful gasses if they burn. Foam insulation should also be protected from sunlight as ultraviolet rays from the sun may damage foam insulation.
Jeff King
http://www.articlesbase.com/home-improvement-articles/foam-insulation-dont-get-left-in-the-cold-67722.html
Jan 31
I saw on HGTV, Holmes on homes, they insulated the basement walls and floor. But I noticed that it hadn’t been strapped or studded yet. They glued the panels on and taped all corners and seams. It looked like a good way to seal the area. But how would you strap and drywall that? You cant just glue and screw the strapping to the 2” foam can you?
Glue insulation to the wall, tape/foam the seams. You can then stud the wall in front of the foam, or attach furring strips to the walls (through the foam) with a power actuated gun, then attach the drywall. Foam is a perfectly efficient way to insulate and air seal the basement walls.
Jan 31
we are high school students who have decided to pattern our investigatory project after the soybean spray Foam Insulation. please help us. thanks.
http://www.powerhousetv.com/stellent2/groups/public/documents/pub/phtv_se_in_bu_000575.hcsp
http://www.biobased.net/
http://www.hgtvpro.com/hpro/bp_insulation/article/0,2617,HPRO_20150_3457625,00.html
Jan 27
Is it dangerous to add Foam Board Insulation by knob and tube wiring? How far away would it have to be not to pose a hazard? Or is it possible(and safe) to add some sort of flooring over the wiring and then add insulation? Any info would be great!
I am in the US, a lot of us have it here who live in older houses. We live in a 1920’s victorian.
put fiberglass over it then the foam
knob and tube wiring isn’t,t the best but that is the way it was done then [20,s]
Jan 27
I would like to know if a wood router could be used to cut Foam Insulation board. I need to make a indent that a router does on wood on foam
the Styrofoam i am using is pink without the balls like a Styrofoam cup. Just solid foam. I am also looking to carve out the middle of the object i am working on about a inch deep. From what i am seeing this is possible.
the whole project is 3 inches thick and like i said before i need to cut into that about an inch
i don’t see why not. i would guess that the higher the density the better result.
Jan 21
I am going to be building a 10×14 shed when it warms up a bit. I plan to use it as a shed to store my lawn tractor and garden tools but i can see a time in the future where i may want to use it as an escape (i am going to run power, tv and internet to it). I can insulate walls and ceiling later but the floor is something i think is a lot easier when you are building the shed. My first thought was to use fiberglass but i then thought about mice and potential for getting wet being so close to the ground. So i am now thinking about something waterproof which would be 4×8 sheets of foam board.
My current plan is to build the floor out of 2×6’s 16inches on center. I would then build the walls and put them up. Next comes the floor made from a 1inch foam board (laid directly on the floor joists) and then 1/2 inch plywood. This would bring the floor up to the same level as the 2×4 plate at the bottom of the wall so the floor would be level. The 2×4 would take the brunt of traffic thru the door and the floor would take load from the top.
Other option would be to first put down a sheet of plywood, then foam board, then another piece of plywood on top and then build up the door ways with 1x so the floor level matches.
When you build your floor be sure to lay some heavy plastic on top of the ground and use pressure treated lumber for the frame and joists. My suggestion for the insulation would be to use 2" rigid foam and to hold this up you install a 1" square cleat 2" down on each side of the floor joist. That way you can measure between the joists when you get them laid, as wood varies from one board to another, and cut the foam on a table saw to the exact measurement and slip it down inbetween each set of joists. Run a bead of construction adhesive on each cleat before lowering the foam pieces on to them. That way they will stay in one place. At this point the Foam Insulation board should be laying just flush with the top of the joists so you can lay the floor on top of them. I’d use construction adhesive under the plywood on the joists and the foam. I really don’t think you’d like the sandwich, plywood, foam, plywood again. The foam will compress with age and pressure and soon you’d be having problems you don’t need. This way you get great insulation on the floor and good rigidity as well.
Jan 18
I have an older home which needs insulation in the attic and under open porch areas.
I’ve heard about the spray Foam Insulation which is supposed to be more effective than the blown in type. Although the attic has the blown in type already it needs additional insulation. Does anyone have any knowledge about the different types and which would be best for my project? Also, is there somewhere that an individual can rent the equipment? Thank you.
open cell and closed cell
open cell–regular sized bubbles and an r-value of 3.5 per inch
closed cell–small encapsulated bubbles and an r-value of 6-7.25 per inch depending on manufacturer. Tends to be more expensive per R unit. Material is MUCH more dense.
Talk to an insulation’s systems specialist to see which is more economical. Must be licensed to install the stuff. Also look into adding a radiant barrier to improve the attic efficiency.
Jan 8
what I’m trying to do here is fill a void where a heating pipe comes in. There is a lot of cold air coming from the same void.
No. The chemicals that are in it will evenly corroded the copper pipes.
Jan 8
I just bought an AC to install into my wall but their is Foam Insulation there. What do I use to cut it out?
I would dig out the foam FIRST, to make sure that there were no pipes or electrical lines buried in it. Beyond that i would use a reciprocating saw instead of circular saw. Running a circular saw at a 90 degree angle is just begging for trouble. The right across your arm or leg kind of trouble. Use a reciprocating saw. Trust me.
Jan 3
I recently framed out a large section of my basement. Half of the framing was existing 2×3s, most likely 20-30 years old or more. The framing in the very corner of the basement, which was I assume had moisture over the past many years, the wood smells pretty bad.
It’s an odd smell, like something sour or rotten. The wood appears to be strong and no mold present, it just smells bad, especially on humid days. I think what I will do is rip out the affected studs and replace with new, but I’m curious of what that smell could be?
Next - for the walls that are 2" off of the concrete walls, I plan to you the polypropylene board insulation.
I’ve read in a few different postings that some guys cut the boards to fit perfectly between the 16" on-center studs and either caulk them in or use that foam stuff spray to hold it in place.
I assume I want to use at least 3/4" between each stud. Any thoughts on this?
Also I’ve checked Lowes and I can’t seem to find what I am looking for. They only appear to have either very thin foam boards or 12" wide pre-cut sections. I guess I need to buy 4×8 sheets of this stuff somewhere and cut it down myself?
Quick note - I have no immediate moisture problems in my basement, no puddling water to be found.
I’m sure there is vapor coming thru the walls, and I’ve painted the walls with some sealer for the heck of it. But nothing too major that I’m going to worry too much over. But that’s why I plan to use the foam instead of anything else.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
The U.S. Department of Energy recommend that:
1 - Extruded (not expanded) polystyrene board be applied directly against the basement wall (no framing or studs needed) and that the gaps between boards be sealed with mastic tape. The idea here is to avoid the use of wood studs directly against the basement walls, because wood soaks moisture and favors mold growth.
The smell that you detected on those studs is mold. Mold smells before it can be seen and way before it starts to actually rot the wood. And it spreads quickly too.
That is why the Department of Energy recommends that they be kept away from the basement walls. In their approach, the insulation boards, sealed in the joints with mastic tape act as a vapor barrier.
After lining the walls with insulation, furry strips can be placed on top of the boards to attach the drywall.
I am adding here a link to two of their issued PDFs on the matter I wouls strongly suggest you look into if you want your basement finishing job to last.
Two more things to consider:
- Keep in mind that the these measures only deal with outside ground moisture that seeps through basement walls. Below grade structures are prone to moisture from more than one source, one of which being condensation. Consider installing a good, energy star rated basement dehumidifier.
- Drywall and wood studs will also not withstand a basement flood or even a plumbing accident.
An alternative to these would be using finished, cement-core, insulated basement wall panels. They are 100% waterproof, non-absorbent all-in-one solutions that won’t get ruined if your basement is under water. They also have the advantage of being removable to access wires and plumbing or inspect the walls, and the cement core gives you walls that are sturdier than drywall, where you can hang book shelves and big screen TVs without needing to look for studs.
