Jan 27
I would like to know if a wood router could be used to cut Foam Insulation board. I need to make a indent that a router does on wood on foam
the Styrofoam i am using is pink without the balls like a Styrofoam cup. Just solid foam. I am also looking to carve out the middle of the object i am working on about a inch deep. From what i am seeing this is possible.
the whole project is 3 inches thick and like i said before i need to cut into that about an inch
i don’t see why not. i would guess that the higher the density the better result.
Jan 21
I am going to be building a 10×14 shed when it warms up a bit. I plan to use it as a shed to store my lawn tractor and garden tools but i can see a time in the future where i may want to use it as an escape (i am going to run power, tv and internet to it). I can insulate walls and ceiling later but the floor is something i think is a lot easier when you are building the shed. My first thought was to use fiberglass but i then thought about mice and potential for getting wet being so close to the ground. So i am now thinking about something waterproof which would be 4×8 sheets of foam board.
My current plan is to build the floor out of 2×6′s 16inches on center. I would then build the walls and put them up. Next comes the floor made from a 1inch foam board (laid directly on the floor joists) and then 1/2 inch plywood. This would bring the floor up to the same level as the 2×4 plate at the bottom of the wall so the floor would be level. The 2×4 would take the brunt of traffic thru the door and the floor would take load from the top.
Other option would be to first put down a sheet of plywood, then foam board, then another piece of plywood on top and then build up the door ways with 1x so the floor level matches.
When you build your floor be sure to lay some heavy plastic on top of the ground and use pressure treated lumber for the frame and joists. My suggestion for the insulation would be to use 2" rigid foam and to hold this up you install a 1" square cleat 2" down on each side of the floor joist. That way you can measure between the joists when you get them laid, as wood varies from one board to another, and cut the foam on a table saw to the exact measurement and slip it down inbetween each set of joists. Run a bead of construction adhesive on each cleat before lowering the foam pieces on to them. That way they will stay in one place. At this point the Foam Insulation board should be laying just flush with the top of the joists so you can lay the floor on top of them. I’d use construction adhesive under the plywood on the joists and the foam. I really don’t think you’d like the sandwich, plywood, foam, plywood again. The foam will compress with age and pressure and soon you’d be having problems you don’t need. This way you get great insulation on the floor and good rigidity as well.
Jan 18
I have an older home which needs insulation in the attic and under open porch areas.
I’ve heard about the spray Foam Insulation which is supposed to be more effective than the blown in type. Although the attic has the blown in type already it needs additional insulation. Does anyone have any knowledge about the different types and which would be best for my project? Also, is there somewhere that an individual can rent the equipment? Thank you.
open cell and closed cell
open cell–regular sized bubbles and an r-value of 3.5 per inch
closed cell–small encapsulated bubbles and an r-value of 6-7.25 per inch depending on manufacturer. Tends to be more expensive per R unit. Material is MUCH more dense.
Talk to an insulation’s systems specialist to see which is more economical. Must be licensed to install the stuff. Also look into adding a radiant barrier to improve the attic efficiency.
