Archive for the Foam Board Insulation category.
Feb 27
Before adding scenery to your HO or O scale model trains toys, first determine the theme, location and layout.
Theme: Consider the theme or purpose for the setting you want to achieve. Is it a passenger train, a military base, or some other setting? The location should be considered, such as if you want the train to travel through towns to and from its destination. Think about the era; do you want your trains toys to be vintage or modern? Your setting and scenery should reflect the overall theme of your train set. Keeping the scenery consistent with the era and theme will keep your train realistic looking.
Location: Decide where you want to display your model trains toys. You might build it on a shelf or countertop for more permanent mounting. You could create an intricate design in which your train runs through the walls (near the ceiling) of your house, traveling from room to room. A different town or factory could be in each room. (Of course, the downside to this type of track is chasing down derailments, but it would be an interesting hobby.)
Layout: After you know the theme and location, plan the layout for the track, terrain, structures and finally, the scenery. The scenery must work within the constraints of the space available and it should compliment your scale model trains. To get some ideas on what you can do with scenery, there are books available from hobby shops. Another source which is faster and cheaper is a Google search for âtrain stationsâ or other related keyword phrases. When you find a real train station, then choose maps, then the Satellite tab and zoom in for a view of the scenery around a real station. You can model your station after that or use parts of it for your own design.
To get started with laying out the scenery, draw a rough sketch design on a piece of paper to get an idea of where you want to place different items. After you have a plan that you like, use a pencil to lightly draw directly on the surface of your layout, whether it is a plywood board or wherever the scenery will be positioned. Plan for height and depth based on the scale of your trains.
Use either construction foam (spray-on kind) or plaster to build hills. The spray Foam Insulation can be painted and cut to fit your style. Spray the foam on a working surface where you have room to work, away from your actual layout, shaping it to the bottom layer of the âhill.â Trim the edges until you are satisfied with its look. Add more layers, spraying and trimming each time, until your hill is the correct height. Be sure the layers fit together. Once you are satisfied with the hillâs height and shape, glue each layer together with a product like Liquid Nails. Hold the layers together with toothpicks until dry. Once dry, you can glue the hill to your board, making it part of your scenery. Let this sit aside while you continue adding scenery.
Begin adding ground cover materials around the track. Your hobby store should have several sizes and shades available; a mix of colors and sizes will provide realistic settings for a wide variety of trains toys. If you will be painting or trimming any scenery near the tracks, be sure to cover the tracks with masking tape.
Decide the placement of trees, grass, and other ground covers before moving to the next step. Be sure you have marked the board with the location of each item.
When you are ready to use ground cover, brush an earth-colored brown paint onto an area a few feet square. Your ground cover will stick to the paint as the paint dries. Add some broken branches or more ground cover to enhance your scenery. Continue this process around the board, being sure to protect the tracks as you work.
If you added water to your scenery, be sure to check that the water flows easily, but doesnât gush and therefore cause damage to your track. The complexity of your water scene determines how much containment you will need for the water. Simply adding a green paint with shimmers gives the illusion of a small pond.
Once the ground cover is all in place, itâs time to add your trees, animals, or other items to your scene. Be sure that purchased items are the same scale as your scale model trains. Your towns can include traffic lights, building, cars, people, and pets. Browse your local hobby shop or an online store for items that fit your theme, whether itâs early steam engine or modern supersonic trains.
Once youâve mastered these simple scenery-building basics, you can add intricate designs, holiday-themed elements, and trees and scenery that reflect the change of seasons. As your train set expands, you can add detailed cities, construction sites, and other scenic items as you choose. Have fun with your designs. Take pictures, keep them in a photo album so you can see your progress, and have a record of your changes.
Joe Kanooga
Feb 20
We’ve had some very frigid days in the northeastern US and Canada the last few weeks. Those of us who have a crawl space underneath part of our home have felt plenty of chilly floors underfoot and cold air on our ankles.
You may think that putting a heater in your crawl space will leave you with warmer feet. But in fact sealing and insulating your crawl space will not only address your indoor discomfort with cold, drafty floors, it will also avoid problems such as mold and rot in the crawl space itself, and will improve the health of your home overall.
For starters, let’s clear up a common mistake about the air flows in a crawl space. For many years, homeowners, homebuilders, and building inspectors have believed that a crawl space needs exterior venting on opposite walls, so that air can flow from one vent to the other, drawing out any extra dampness from the enclosed space. But the most recent studies show that ventilating a crawl space creates a very different result, known as the stack effect.
In a nutshell, with a good supply of outside air coming from your crawl space, all you need is a few cracks or hair’s width openings between the crawl space and the living areas, and a few drafts at the top of the house, such as old windows or a poorly sealed attic hatch, and your house starts acting like a giant chimney stack. Hot air rises, so the heated air inside your house works its way out the top openings, pulling cold air up from the crawl space.
The result is that the humidity and cold (and mold spores and dust) from the crawl space get drawn into your home, raising your heating costs and endangering your well-being. Ironically, the better you ventilate your crawl space, the more heat gets drawn out of your home through upstairs cracks.
Even in warmer months, when there is no stack effect from a crawl space, ventilating both ends of the crawl space doesn’t actually do much for airflow or humidity. There is no effect of rising heat to make the air flow through the vents, if they are both at the same level. And this approach basicaly amounts to treating the symptoms - poorly at that - instead of curing the disease. The disease, in this case, is excessive dampness and air entering the crawl space, and excess heat transfer during colder times of year between the crawl space and the outdoors.
You may find that your builder scoffs at the idea of insulating and sealing a crawl space. It defies conventional wisdom - and it also contravenes many local building codes that were developed from that conventional wisdom. But you’ll improve your indoor air quality, cut heat loss, and resolve any problems with humidity, mold, or rotting wood down below, if you set this out-of-date belief aside and do what recent research shows is most effective.
To properly seal and insulate your crawl space, start by removing any sharp objects such as old nails, glass shards, or sharp stones from the crawl space floor, so that you don’t hurt your hands or knees as you work (it is a “crawl space” after all). Also, you’ll be placing a plastic liner on the floor and you don’t want any sharp objects to push through the barrier and cut it as you are installing it.
Buy a liner made specifically for the task - or look for a suitable, thick polyethylene plastic. Not the 6 mil typically used for a vapor barrier - you need to go to 15 or 20 mil thickness if you want a liner that will last. The liner should be large enough to cover the whole floor along with the walls - preferably without your having to cut extra pieces for the walls. The best way to compute the size is to add twice the wall height to both the width and length of the floor, and then add 10% extra to account for the slope of the floor. So if you have 2 foot walls around the crawl space and a 15 x 20 foot space, you’ll need a sheet 21 by 29 feet. It’s better to buy a bit too much liner than to find yourself having to cut and tape on small pieces when you find out you didn’t buy enough to begin with!
Close off any ventilation openings, and for crawl space windows, either replace them with energy efficient ones, or at least ensure that they are not cracked or drafty. You may want to cut out rectangular sections of Foam Insulation to close off the window areas, as this will add an extra level of insulation to windows as well as cut down on drafts. Also check that any doors to the outside are also well weatherstripped.
If part or all of the walls are wood framed, place batt insulation against the wall between the studs; if you have masonry walls, use foam board. Be sure that any large gaps in the walls are patched first - any place where you can see outdoor light shining in from the outside.
Lay the liner over the crawl space floor, and up the walls. Trim the excess pieces off where the wall corners meet. Staple the vapor barrier to the studs, and seal all staple holes and any cuts or breaks in the poly with mastic tape.
Don’t do just part of this job. If you seal the ventilation without adding the vapor barrier, or put in the liner without insulating, you will run into trouble later on. And do it all within a week or two - don’t make this one of those projects thattakes months or years.
Once you have properly sealed and insulated your crawl space, you will find your home much more comfortable in winter. Your floors will be warmer, you’ll have fewer drafts, and your home will be safe from the health effects of crawl space mold and mildew. In fact, so will the crawl space itself.
And remember the notion we started with, that a crawl space heater might solve the problem of cold on your floors during this chilly winter? Well, if you follow the guidance above, you won’t need such a heater. We sealed the crawl space below our breakfast nook a while back, and the breakfast nook became so much more comfortable, we were able to disconnect the baseboard heaters that had been installed in the kitchen extension when it was built.
Robin Green
http://www.articlesbase.com/diy-articles/staying-warm-this-winter-whats-the-right-approach-a-crawl-space-heater-or-proper-insulation-728094.html
Feb 11
http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Materials-Insulation-Sheathings/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xl5Zbaxx/R-100322369/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
I need to find Foam board which is the same as this but i’m hoping to find an Eco Friendly (Made) insulation board. I have an art project which we need to use this to make a chair, And want to know if there are any like it but made friendlier.
You should be able to find recycled sheathing as a green building product. Thermo-Ply, made by the Berry Plastics Building Products Group, may be a good alternative.
http://www.berryplasticsbpg.com/products.aspx?page=thermo-ply
Jan 27
Is it dangerous to add Foam Board Insulation by knob and tube wiring? How far away would it have to be not to pose a hazard? Or is it possible(and safe) to add some sort of flooring over the wiring and then add insulation? Any info would be great!
I am in the US, a lot of us have it here who live in older houses. We live in a 1920’s victorian.
put fiberglass over it then the foam
knob and tube wiring isn’t,t the best but that is the way it was done then [20,s]
Jan 21
I am going to be building a 10×14 shed when it warms up a bit. I plan to use it as a shed to store my lawn tractor and garden tools but i can see a time in the future where i may want to use it as an escape (i am going to run power, tv and internet to it). I can insulate walls and ceiling later but the floor is something i think is a lot easier when you are building the shed. My first thought was to use fiberglass but i then thought about mice and potential for getting wet being so close to the ground. So i am now thinking about something waterproof which would be 4×8 sheets of foam board.
My current plan is to build the floor out of 2×6’s 16inches on center. I would then build the walls and put them up. Next comes the floor made from a 1inch foam board (laid directly on the floor joists) and then 1/2 inch plywood. This would bring the floor up to the same level as the 2×4 plate at the bottom of the wall so the floor would be level. The 2×4 would take the brunt of traffic thru the door and the floor would take load from the top.
Other option would be to first put down a sheet of plywood, then foam board, then another piece of plywood on top and then build up the door ways with 1x so the floor level matches.
When you build your floor be sure to lay some heavy plastic on top of the ground and use pressure treated lumber for the frame and joists. My suggestion for the insulation would be to use 2" rigid foam and to hold this up you install a 1" square cleat 2" down on each side of the floor joist. That way you can measure between the joists when you get them laid, as wood varies from one board to another, and cut the foam on a table saw to the exact measurement and slip it down inbetween each set of joists. Run a bead of construction adhesive on each cleat before lowering the foam pieces on to them. That way they will stay in one place. At this point the Foam Insulation board should be laying just flush with the top of the joists so you can lay the floor on top of them. I’d use construction adhesive under the plywood on the joists and the foam. I really don’t think you’d like the sandwich, plywood, foam, plywood again. The foam will compress with age and pressure and soon you’d be having problems you don’t need. This way you get great insulation on the floor and good rigidity as well.
Jan 3
I recently framed out a large section of my basement. Half of the framing was existing 2×3s, most likely 20-30 years old or more. The framing in the very corner of the basement, which was I assume had moisture over the past many years, the wood smells pretty bad.
It’s an odd smell, like something sour or rotten. The wood appears to be strong and no mold present, it just smells bad, especially on humid days. I think what I will do is rip out the affected studs and replace with new, but I’m curious of what that smell could be?
Next - for the walls that are 2" off of the concrete walls, I plan to you the polypropylene board insulation.
I’ve read in a few different postings that some guys cut the boards to fit perfectly between the 16" on-center studs and either caulk them in or use that foam stuff spray to hold it in place.
I assume I want to use at least 3/4" between each stud. Any thoughts on this?
Also I’ve checked Lowes and I can’t seem to find what I am looking for. They only appear to have either very thin foam boards or 12" wide pre-cut sections. I guess I need to buy 4×8 sheets of this stuff somewhere and cut it down myself?
Quick note - I have no immediate moisture problems in my basement, no puddling water to be found.
I’m sure there is vapor coming thru the walls, and I’ve painted the walls with some sealer for the heck of it. But nothing too major that I’m going to worry too much over. But that’s why I plan to use the foam instead of anything else.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
The U.S. Department of Energy recommend that:
1 - Extruded (not expanded) polystyrene board be applied directly against the basement wall (no framing or studs needed) and that the gaps between boards be sealed with mastic tape. The idea here is to avoid the use of wood studs directly against the basement walls, because wood soaks moisture and favors mold growth.
The smell that you detected on those studs is mold. Mold smells before it can be seen and way before it starts to actually rot the wood. And it spreads quickly too.
That is why the Department of Energy recommends that they be kept away from the basement walls. In their approach, the insulation boards, sealed in the joints with mastic tape act as a vapor barrier.
After lining the walls with insulation, furry strips can be placed on top of the boards to attach the drywall.
I am adding here a link to two of their issued PDFs on the matter I wouls strongly suggest you look into if you want your basement finishing job to last.
Two more things to consider:
- Keep in mind that the these measures only deal with outside ground moisture that seeps through basement walls. Below grade structures are prone to moisture from more than one source, one of which being condensation. Consider installing a good, energy star rated basement dehumidifier.
- Drywall and wood studs will also not withstand a basement flood or even a plumbing accident.
An alternative to these would be using finished, cement-core, insulated basement wall panels. They are 100% waterproof, non-absorbent all-in-one solutions that won’t get ruined if your basement is under water. They also have the advantage of being removable to access wires and plumbing or inspect the walls, and the cement core gives you walls that are sturdier than drywall, where you can hang book shelves and big screen TVs without needing to look for studs.
Dec 10
It’s not winter yet, but in Oklahoma with the high winds and the low wind chills, I’m scared that my water pipes in my 34 foot rv may freeze. I have put 1/2 inch Foam Board Insulation in all the empty space under all closets and under cabinets and today (if the temps are warm enough), I will try to put more foam under the bathtub and around the bathroom sink. I have also wrapped the water line into the RV and patched any and all holes. I also let the water drip. The RV Park manager said RVs and Travel trailers do not need skirting, because they are mobile and most don’t stay parked long. Well, I’m trying to stay in one spot for at least 2 years in order to save money for a better and bigger toy hauler.
Can anyone tell me more about insulation my RV from the cold? In this small town there is not any RV repair shops or dealers.
If your not using it just drain the systems, both fresh and gray. Leave them open so that any residual water will have an air space in which to expand if it freezes. This should make everything ok. They do make special antifreeze compounds as well.
Dec 2
which is the least expensive and easiest to work with Thanks in advance
When using Styrofoam, you just get a rectangular piece of Styrofoam, pull your fabric over the front and hot glue it to the back. Drill 2 long screws into the wall and gently press the Styrofoam over the screws holding it in place.
Another option is to make it out of a piece of plywood:
http://www.ehow.com/how_5654031_make-padded-valance-box.html
Nov 2
My apartment is really poorly insulated. The best way to fix that would be to get foam/injected insulation done but right now I can not afford it. I was thinking that there must be a place where you can get insulated curtains to hang on walls that are exposed to the exterior. Like those large commercial type curtains in office building that you would hang along an entire wall or foam board that you would stick to that wall.
It won’t be as efficient but it will keep me from paying a small fortune for heating while I save up for the insulation work.
Thanks!
We had that problem in my mom’s 80 year old house on the side walls which were plaster without insulation. We bought 4′ x 8′ Rigid FoamFoam Insulation sheets (1 1/2 inch, I think) and wrapped them with burlap (you could use any fabric — king-sized sheets from a discount store would be a cheap source of a lot of yardage). Then we stapled vinyl sheeting to the wall for a vapor barrier and fastened the panels to the wall with drywall screws through to the studs. It made a huge difference in keeping the rooms warm and the wrapped foam made a giant bulletin board that we could hang things on.
Oct 23
Our house was built in the 1850’s and the walls are just thin. Supposedly there is blown-in insulation but the walls still feel awfully cold to the touch even though we’ve sealed up drafts and leaks.
The (original?) clapboards are in so-so shape and so we’re thinking about ripping it all off, insulating, and re-covering with new clapboard. A contractor told me this would be the best way, rather than just slapping foam board and new siding over the existing siding. Is it really?
Also, what is the proper order of materials, and which materials are best? For example,
1. Batting insulation
2. Foam board as sheathing
3. Tyvek
4. Clapboards
does that sound about right?
My husband is pretty handy, is this something we could tackle ourselves with some guidance?
Be very, very, very (did I write "very"?) careful when you attempt to insulate a house from the exterior. The issue is where the dew-point takes place inside the walls. If it happens inside the insulation or inside the wall and there is no vapor barrier on the _interior (living space)_ of the house, water will condense within the wall cavity and in considerable quantity. Which will inevitable lead to rot.
Depending on the nature and age of the blown-in insulation and whether a vapor barrier was installed at the time (paint or some types of wall-covering) you may already be experiencing this - and it would partially explain the coldness of the walls.
Before you go any further, you need to investigate what you have, how it is performing, check for dampness or condensation within your walls and get a much better idea of your options.
Now - never, never, never, never, never (did I write "never"?) ever install vapor-impermeable insulation to the exterior of a house, as in foam board and new sheathing/siding: The inside face of that foam-board becomes the vapor barrier and condensation point. Not good. Yes, I am stepping all over a couple of (in my opinion questionable) industries - but them is the facts.
On the materials you mention: Tyvek is Dupont’s trademark for a infiltration-barrier, not a vapor barrier. So, it is perfectly OK to install it on the outside of the sheathing, but inside the siding. Any other form of insulation (except spray foam - expensive but a super-excellent insulation material) will require an interior vapor barrier to be safe to install. On foam - make sure that you are not sensitive to the chemicals that go into it and that it is approved for residential use, and that it goes all the way to the inside-of-the-wall face of the inside finish (plaster or drywall).
In any case, if I were you, I would suffer through this season and save for and plan for doing this work after the weather breaks in the spring - with the advantage that it will reduce your cooling costs as well.
What are your options? Here goes:
a) Install blown-in shreaded fiberglass insulation in the wall cavities. This has the virtue of being water and mold resistant and does not collapse or settle over time. The disadvantage is that if you ever have to open a wall to make a repair it is nasty stuff to handle.
b) Install the *new* blown-in treated cellulose insulation. Again as with the fiberglass it does not collapse or settle, is impervious to moisture or mold and also acts as a partial (but not complete) vapor-barrier. A bit more expensive.
NOTE: with either of the above, you should use an approved vapor-barrier paint or wall-covering on the inside of the insulated walls to eliminate condensation problems.
c) Install spray-in foam as previously noted. There are kits available for the DIY-types - but you need to be scrupulously careful when using them - and note the suggestion on chemical sensitivities.
d) Remove the _interior_ finishes and install batt insulation with the proper vapor barriers. No fun and a great deal of work but with care and attention will give excellent results using low-tech, proven processes.
Before you do any of this, indulge in the traditional simple solutions of caulking, tightening windows and other expedients. You will get a great deal more mileage stopping infiltration than you will with just insulation but still 1850s-style infiltration.
We keep an 4,000+ square foot three-story house built in 1890 which we moved into about 19 months ago from a 2,200 s.f. three-story twin built in 1895. I spent much of last summer tightening the house inside and out, insulating the crawl-spaces, installing storm doors (wood, "in keeping") and other refinements, replacing radiators (17 of 37), chimney dampers and so forth. That, together with a condensing boiler and some control refinements got our heating bill lower than the house we moved from. It works.
Good luck with it. Do some research on condensation, vapor barriers and how they work so you understand the process, needs and pitfalls. And be very careful.
Good luck with it.
