Archive for the Foam Pipe Insulation category.

Need an opinion on weather stripping, and any input you might have?

I have this little (700 sq ft) rental house with really cheap rent most of the year, but in the winter, the heating bill could easily be 200 bucks a month, and I’m still wearing wool and mittens indoors. There simply isn’t any insulation in the walls, roof, etc…

So I was thinking about doing some weatherstripping around the doors and windows….

Would that make much of a difference?

I’ve been unemployed for sometime, and I’m looking to cut back on the amount that I spend on heating AND hope to be comfortable…

If you can think of any other inexpensive ways to reduce my heating costs, please let me know….

I already have a space heater to only heat my bedroom at night (and a timer on the house thermostat) and I have plastic on the inside windows, draft stoppers under the doors, and plan on shooting all the holes under the counters (where the pipes run in, etc) full of foam to cut down on drafts, and I try to keep the humdity up, since that seems to help it feel warmer.

Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks all
Be well
Tink

Tink, the attic insualtion should take first priority. Adding to that first will give you the most bang for the buck. Peek up there and see if you have anything for insualtion (i.e. plastic layed for air sealing, fiberglass bats laying down, blown in gray cellulose insulation, etc.) As a general rule if you see the wood ceiling joists in the attic you have insufficient insualtion. This is not expensive ($200 or so) but your landlord should be the one to cover the cost and it will benefit you GREATLY. If the landlord is unwilling to budge on doing it call your county Community Action program or weatherization. You may qualify for free help with it.

On the weatherstripping, that is a good measure and cost effective, but i would suggest you get a smoke pencil http://www.smokepencil.com to help identify the worst of the leaks and also if your corrections are working well.

As you seal things up, Pay close attension to basement windows. They tend to be over looked and they really let in a lot of cold outside air since they are one of the lowest points on the home natural air stack effect. You can usually plastic them or put ridgid foam board over them.

Indoor and Outdoor Winterizing Tips for the Home

It’s not too late to ensure that your home, from outside in has been poked, prodded, and provided for when it comes to winter care. By following these steps not only will you make your home more comfortable, energy efficient and save money, you may even prevent damage that’s caused by colder temperatures and weather conditions. Any materials that may be needed can be easily found at your local hardware or home improvement store at a minimal cost.

Maximize your Heating Efficiency

Making sure that your home’s HVAC system is at its optimal is one key thing you can do this season. Getting a heating tune-up can result in reducing your heating costs as well as maintain that everything runs efficiently during the coldest time of the year. In order to check that you’re not inadvertently wasting energy, the following are a few inexpensive things you can do for your home.

Check for cracks in all the windows and doors in the house, which are obvious areas where cold air can be leaking through. It’s also important to check for gaps in the brickwork, stucco, siding and even the foundation of your home. If you find any cracks, the next thing to do is to of course to fill them. For the exterior of the house you will need weather stripping, caulk and foam. There may also be leaks that need to be plugged in from the interior of the house. You can find these air leaks by making a flag from tissue on a toothpick or by lighting a stick of incense around windows and doors or switch plates on outside walls.

If air is coming in, the flag would wave or the smoke would visibly diffuse. The next step is filling in these holes with temporary caulking that would be removed once the weather is warmer, probably by spring.  Adding more insulation – which can get compacted over time – in the attic and crawlspace are other ways to prevent heat from escaping.  Adding storm windows over your existing windows can reduce heat loss by 25 to 50 percent. Implementing a programmable thermostat that is set to a reasonable temperature can also help save energy.

Winter Garden Care

Now that you’ve chosen winter hardy plants, make sure that you avoid planting under the eaves of your house as come snow fall, that and ice will settle on the plants. Soaking plant beds before the ground freezes helps with retaining the soil’s moisture underground, which is especially important for evergreens. Laying down a 2-3 inch layer of mulch such as pine bark or needles or wood chips will also maintain the soil’s moisture by reducing water loss, as well as prevent alternate freezing and thawing of the soil (that can damage short-rooted plants).

It also keeps the soil temperature warmer so that roots can grow deeper during the winter. Remember to leave several inches from the trunks of the trees to the mulch in order to prevent rodents from feeding on the bark.  Weak branches should also be removed however, if the pruning was done during late summer, new growth could have been spurred, which would lessen the nutrient reserves of your plants necessary during winter hibernation.

Protect Your Plumbing

In addition to sealing up your home from cold air leaks, raking leaves and cleaning out gutters, homeowners should consider their plumbing system when it comes to winterizing steps. Taking a few precautionary measures before cold weather sets in just might save you from dealing with a messy and costly water pipe break. Shutting off water supplies that won’t be used is the first thing to do; such as any outside water supplies like the tap in your backyard. Store any garden hoses inside after they’ve been drained and of course, disconnected. If there are valves in your basement that supply water to the garden faucets, these too should be shut off and drained by unscrewing the little cap on the side of the valve. If you have an irrigation system it should also be turned off and have any water drained from its lines; leftover water can freeze and cause pipes to break.

Should a problem arise, knowing where your main water shut off valve is located – typically next to the water meter at the front of the home or in the furnace room – could be crucial should the need arise that it be switched off to stop the flow of water into the home. If you and your family plan to be away for a longer period of time during the winter, consider turning off the main valve and having a professional drain your system to prevent freezing of the pipes should the furnace unexpectedly stop working. Another preventative measure is having pipes and valves in unheated areas wrapped with heat tape, or covered with pipe insulation.

Taking a few uncomplicated steps in preventative measures this winter can safeguard your house and garden from damage caused by prolonged freezing temperatures. Making your home more energy efficient and avoiding potential incurred costs will save money as well as give ease of mind, making the worst of winter that much more endurable.

With Files from: Naturalawn of America, Waterworks Plumbing, and Service Experts.

Susan Hu
http://www.articlesbase.com/interior-design-articles/indoor-and-outdoor-winterizing-tips-for-the-home-749583.html

My doberman won’t leave his ears posted… HELP!!!?

I recently got my dobie’s ears cropped. My fiance and I were indecisive about getting it done, and now I wish we hadn’t, so please don’t give me any lectures about it being cruel or wrong, what is done is done and now I need help. The vet has tried several times and we have tried several times to post the dog’s ears. The posting will stay in place for a few hours and then the dog manages to get the post out of his ear. We have one of the cone shaped collars on him in an effort to keep him from ripping the whole contraption off his head.

We have tried using pipe foam, as this was what the vet used/suggested but it hasn’t worked too well.

We have tried figure eight around his head with a chin strap, the stuff will stay on his head but the actual post always pops out of his ear, even though it is still taped to the ear. We push it down as deep as possible into his ear but it still pops out.

Has anyone used the adhesive glue painted on the inside of the ear with pipe insulation or moleskin? Or does anyone else have any ideas?

When my aunt had her Boxer’s ears done, this may sound wierd, but she used a tampon to hold the ear in place then use athletes tape to wrap the ears and connected them at the top of the dog’s head.
There is this special type of liquid that melts the glue from the athletes tape but im not sure what it’s called.