Need an opinion on weather stripping, and any input you might have?
I have this little (700 sq ft) rental house with really cheap rent most of the year, but in the winter, the heating bill could easily be 200 bucks a month, and I’m still wearing wool and mittens indoors. There simply isn’t any insulation in the walls, roof, etc…
So I was thinking about doing some weatherstripping around the doors and windows….
Would that make much of a difference?
I’ve been unemployed for sometime, and I’m looking to cut back on the amount that I spend on heating AND hope to be comfortable…
If you can think of any other inexpensive ways to reduce my heating costs, please let me know….
I already have a space heater to only heat my bedroom at night (and a timer on the house thermostat) and I have plastic on the inside windows, draft stoppers under the doors, and plan on shooting all the holes under the counters (where the pipes run in, etc) full of foam to cut down on drafts, and I try to keep the humdity up, since that seems to help it feel warmer.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks all
Be well
Tink
Tink, the attic insualtion should take first priority. Adding to that first will give you the most bang for the buck. Peek up there and see if you have anything for insualtion (i.e. plastic layed for air sealing, fiberglass bats laying down, blown in gray cellulose insulation, etc.) As a general rule if you see the wood ceiling joists in the attic you have insufficient insualtion. This is not expensive ($200 or so) but your landlord should be the one to cover the cost and it will benefit you GREATLY. If the landlord is unwilling to budge on doing it call your county Community Action program or weatherization. You may qualify for free help with it.
On the weatherstripping, that is a good measure and cost effective, but i would suggest you get a smoke pencil http://www.smokepencil.com to help identify the worst of the leaks and also if your corrections are working well.
As you seal things up, Pay close attension to basement windows. They tend to be over looked and they really let in a lot of cold outside air since they are one of the lowest points on the home natural air stack effect. You can usually plastic them or put ridgid foam board over them.
Dear Tink, My guess is that if the walls or attic aren’t insulated properly or at all I’m sure the doors and windows leak too.I would definitely try some weather stripping.Depending on the type of windows you have go to Menard’s etc. and see what they have to try and seal them up,you have plastic over them too.Check outside around the windows and check for huge gaps and holes.You may have to caulk around them.Definitely do your doors.Make sure their latching tightly and don’t have excess amount of movement.Inspect the threshold and make sure the door has a good seal and sweep on the bottom.On a windy day you should be able to feel around the door and windows for problem areas.Good Luck
References :
Weather stripping windows and doors will certainly help. Those temporary window kits help a lot too. We’ve replaced most of the windows in this old house but the couple that need to be done yet always get those kits on them in the winter. Probably one of the biggest things you can do is get some caulk and re-caulk the window and door frames inside and out. Since you’re improving the permanent structure, your landlord might help pay for the supplies. Caulk is cheap anyhow. The winter after I caulked all the windows in this house, our heating bill went down by 1/3.
Caulking isn’t hard but it takes time. If you don’t know how, ask the folks at the hardware or home improvement store for guidance. I removed most of the old caulk with a putty knife, cleaned the area and then put the new caulk in. And I’m sure there are a ton of how to videos and articles on the Internet.
There are also a couple of insulating paint additives on the market. I get the one I use from hytechsales.com. It stirs right into paint; you might have to thin the paint out with water or paint thinner. 2 coats can increase the insulation factor by up to 30 some percent. I used that in our upstairs bathroom and it’s made a huge difference.
You’re on the right track but I would get the windows and doors caulked and weather stripped. I do know that made a big difference here!
References :
Your space heater is it electric?Pending where you live that could be very expensive. You sound like you have done all you can do as to insulating windows and around cracks.You would have to replace the outside doors and add insulation to the attic.Most of your heat loss is through the ceiling into the attic area.With renting I would not pay out for all that insulation unless the owner is willing to pay for it .As he could write some off on rebates from the electric and gas co,or Gov Program.Do not turn off your heat as it takes a long time to heat the place,and will use more heat to warm it all.Like the floor and carpets furniture and such.This will all radiate heat back into the rooms.If you heat only one room and have all thoses rooms around that area cold it will chill the warm room also as the Inside walls have no insulation.Heating only the room you are in is like tring to keep a tent warm inside went it is outside with only the tent walls for the out side.It is better to heat all the rooms around the area you are in.You should be able to lower the heat in the other rooms some.Or close the vent a little to lower heat.Do not close off.Last you said this is cheep most of the time,well when it gets cold you will just have to pay out.Add up your over all expences and figure out in one year is it worth to stay another season.Tell landlord all you have done to make it better there as they should be willing to pay for at least the caulk and weather stripping as it will increase there worth in the property and it is a write off to them in the end as improvements.
References :
Tink, the attic insualtion should take first priority. Adding to that first will give you the most bang for the buck. Peek up there and see if you have anything for insualtion (i.e. plastic layed for air sealing, fiberglass bats laying down, blown in gray cellulose insulation, etc.) As a general rule if you see the wood ceiling joists in the attic you have insufficient insualtion. This is not expensive ($200 or so) but your landlord should be the one to cover the cost and it will benefit you GREATLY. If the landlord is unwilling to budge on doing it call your county Community Action program or weatherization. You may qualify for free help with it.
On the weatherstripping, that is a good measure and cost effective, but i would suggest you get a smoke pencil http://www.smokepencil.com to help identify the worst of the leaks and also if your corrections are working well.
As you seal things up, Pay close attension to basement windows. They tend to be over looked and they really let in a lot of cold outside air since they are one of the lowest points on the home natural air stack effect. You can usually plastic them or put ridgid foam board over them.
References :
I work with community action weatherization a lot in my area.